Return to Thittai
I had visited the Vasishteshwarar Temple in Tamil Nadu about a decade back. A short car ride from Kumbakonam, situated just before Tanjavur, it’s a lovely journey on a narrow but smooth, well-kept road with trees on both sides and the river Cauvery languidly flowing by its side for many miles. The temple itself is ancient, and unlike Alangudi [also dedicated to Lord Shiva and Guru Jupiter], not visited daily by people in their multitudes.
This time the driver took us by a different road – secluded, even prettier, paddy fields unfolding like a soft carpet to the left and different hues of green and emerald soothing the eyes. Unfortunately the river ran dry due to the waters barricaded by state politics. The road itself is narrow with goats and dogs lounging on the highway oblivious to our insistent honking, and the driver having to carefully thread his way through, past them to our destination.
Built by the Chola kings in the 12th century AD, the temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, Vashiteshwarar since he was worshipped by Sage Vasishtar, and Goddess Ulaganayaki. This is a rare shrine where Guru Bhagvan has a separate temple within the precincts between Vasishteswarar and Ulaganayaki. The only place where you can see Guru Bhagvan who is in his Raja Guru posture with 4 hands holding his weapons and a book, with infinite powers to grant boons and alleviate the suffering of his devotees. Lord Guru bestows on his faithful health, wealth, wisdom, knowledge, fame, virtue, optimism, expansion, and the spirit of divinity. I have marvelled both times at the utter peacefulness of the place – uncrowded, unhurried – the priest standing at the temple gate chatting, waiting for the devotees to visit.
"Thittai", the name of the village means a Mound. Legend has it that when the entire world experienced the deluge Lord Brahma & Vishnu worshipped Lord Shiva for protection. In their wanderings for a safe haven they found this spot, above the waters of the deluge, where there was a Shiva Linga which they prayed to. Lord Shiva blessed them with his presence at this haven, safe even during Pralayam, the deluge. Pleased with their devotion, Lord Shiva delegated the duties of Creation & Protection to Brahma & Vishnu respectively.
To add to the mystique of the shrine, a drop of water falls on the Lingam (Main Deity) exactly every twenty four minutes from the roof. Two stones "Suryagaanthakkal" and "Chandragaanthakkal" which are placed at strategic points above the Vimana absorb moisture from the atmosphere resulting in the droplets of water that bathe the deity.
Thittai also means wisdom and devotees pray here for wisdom, education and prosperity through intelligence. Like in so many aspects of life – one could travel here for the destination but even the journey could transport you to rapture!
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