Tirunallar – An Inner Journey with Lord Shani



I have been going to Tirunallar for almost a decade, and every time with the same sense of expectation. It’s a beautiful journey by road whether you approach it from Kumbakonam or Puducherry. The road is dotted with paddy fields, grain heaps, temples and ponds. It’s a peaceful, verdant landscape that urbanites dream of often but seldom get to visit. Streams and small rivulets accompany the road on its journey. On my first visit years ago I paid my respects at Tirunallar, Swamimalai and Thitai over the same day – 3 very different, very blessed shrines.

Tirunallar in Karaikal, Puducherry is the shrine of Lord Shiva and one of the famed Navagraha temples in the Kumbakonam region. The shrine at Tirunallar is devoted to the planet Saturn, Lord Shani – the giver, according to the scriptures, of judgements, rewards, and sometimes punishments. We go past a traffic jam of bullock carts [horns painted red and capped in shiny metal], down the lane to the temple, past a lazy elephant to the statue of Lord Ganesha in an alcove. This is the beginning!

Tirunallar is dedicated to Lord Darbharanyeswaran, a form of Lord Shiva. Godess Parvati is in her chambers. And Lord Shani at Thirunallar is in a benevolent mood, a giver of hope and gifts. Every 2.5 years when planet Saturn shifts his astrological home a million people throng the temple to pray for blessings over the next 2.5 years. It is said that King Nala was under the influence of Lord Shani for an extended period of time in his life and went through several ordeals. He obtained total relief only after worshipping Lord Shiva at this shrine.

Every Indian temple is built upon the foundation of faith, myth and legend. At Thirunallar the divine influence of Lord Shiva has calmed Lord Shani to be a forgiving influence. A beautiful place to seek Lord Shani’s blessings and offer your gratitude! "Nala Theertham", also called as "Nalangulam", the sacred water tank, is where pilgrims cleanse their curses and sins. It is located at a stroll-able distance from the main temple. The "Golden Crow" and "Maragadha Lingam" (the emerald lingam) are famous here.

The temple is calm, surrounded by little shops selling the tools and trinkets of devotion, and fine South Indian filter coffee. The architectural features date back to the Chola period and inscriptions dating back to the 12th century AD are found in the temple.

Tirunallar stands at the point of confluence of history and devotion – a beautiful place, whether your interest lies in the serenity of the journey, or the cleansing, forgiving power of the destination!

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